STORY

Goa Diaries: North vs. South Edition

December 28, 2025

Cover image for Goa Diaries: North vs. South Edition

Here at Compiling Miles, we believe that no two trips are ever the same—even if the destination code remains constant. We've visited Goa twice, and each iteration offered a completely different flavor of the Sunshine State.

It's a tale of two versions: The energetic release of 2022 and the serene patch of 2025.

💡 The Concept: "Susegad"
That famous Goan concept of contentment and relaxation. We found it in fragments during our first trip, but we truly lived it during our second.


🎰 Version 1.0: The Pulse of North Goa (Jan 2022)

Our first rendezvous with Goa was all about energy, history, and iconic spots. We wanted to see what the hype was about, so we stayed in the thick of the action but retreated to luxury at night.

🏰 The Royal Stay

Taj Fort Aguada Resort & Spa — This isn't just a hotel; it's a chapter of history. Built on the ramparts of a 16th-century Portuguese fortress, the resort overlooks the Arabian Sea.

Colonial Portuguese architecture at Taj Fort Aguada
Colonial Portuguese architecture at Taj Fort Aguada

  • The Highlight: Direct access to the fortress walls. We watched the sunset there without the tourist crowds.
  • The Bonus: Staying here gave us cross-access to the adjacent Taj Holiday Village. It was like getting two luxury resorts for the price of one.
  • Location: Right on Sinquerim Beach—ocean on one side, historic lighthouse on the other.

The resort's architecture blends Portuguese heritage with modern luxury. Every corner tells a story.

The infinity pool at Taj Fort Aguada with panoramic views of the Arabian Sea
The infinity pool at Taj Fort Aguada with panoramic views of the Arabian Sea

The lush tropical grounds provide the perfect escape between beach sessions.

Palm-lined pathways through the resort grounds
Palm-lined pathways through the resort grounds

And then there's the golden hour—when the fort walls glow amber and the sea turns to liquid gold.

Golden sunset casting warm light over the historic fort walls
Golden sunset casting warm light over the historic fort walls

⛪ Culture Fix

We couldn't visit North Goa without paying respects to its colonial past.

  1. Basilica of Bom Jesus (Old Goa): A UNESCO site holding the remains of St. Francis Xavier. The unplastered laterite exterior is stunning.

  2. Immaculate Conception Church (Panjim): The famous white church with the zig-zag stairs.

Pro Tip: Visit Immaculate Conception Church at sunset when the lights turn on. It looks like a wedding cake in the middle of the city.

🍽️ The North Goa Eat List

  • The Banyan Tree (Taj Holiday Village) — Since we had access to the sister property, we walked over for dinner here. Sitting under the massive 300-year-old banyan tree while enjoying authentic Thai curry was a magical experience.

  • Britto's (Baga) — A rite of passage. Their Seafood Platter is massive, and the Stuffed Crabs are legendary.

  • Gunpowder (Assagao) — Set in an old Portuguese home with a lush garden.
    Must Order: Kerala Chicken Curry with flaky Malabar Parottas and their signature Sol Kadhi (a refreshing coconut-kokum drink).

  • Thalassa (Siolim) — Famous for Greek food and sunsets. Sipping Watermelon Coolers while watching the sun dip into the river is a core memory.


🏖️ Version 2.0: The Soul of South Goa (Dec 2025)

Fast forward to December 2025. This time, our parameters were different: disconnect, recharge, and avoid the traffic. We drove down South, where the coconut trees outnumber the tourists.

🌿 The Staycation

Holiday Inn Resort, Cavelossim — Unlike the cliffside drama of the North, this was tropical bliss on Mobor Beach. The property is huge—25 acres of lush gardens leading right onto the white sand.

Dining Highlight: The Beach Grill. Eating fresh catch with our feet literally in the sand? Peak vacation mode.

🌊 Scenic Gems

The South has a raw, untouched beauty that the North often lacks.

  • Cabo de Rama Fort: Mostly ruins now, but the view from the cliff edge—looking down at the crashing waves—is arguably the best view in the state.

  • Cola Beach (The Blue Lagoon): A hidden gem where a freshwater lagoon meets the salty ocean. We kayaked in the lagoon, surrounded by hills. It felt like a private island.

🍽️ The South Goa Eat List

  • The Fisherman's Wharf (Cavelossim) — Set on the banks of the Sal River. The live music, the river view, and the Prawn Balchão made it one of the best meals of the trip.

  • Martin's Corner (Betalbatim) — A true Goan institution.
    Must Order: Crab Xec Xec (crab in roasted spice coconut gravy) and Bebinca (the traditional layered cake) are non-negotiable.


⚖️ The Showdown: North vs. South

FeatureNorth Goa (2022)South Goa (2025)
The VibeEnergetic, Historic, LoudCalm, Scenic, Private
Best ForParty, Shopping, HistoryRelaxing, Reading, Nature
The StayTaj Fort Aguada (Historic Luxury)Holiday Inn Resort (Tropical)
Iconic SpotBasilica of Bom JesusCabo de Rama Fort
Top MealThai Curry at The Banyan TreeCrab Xec Xec at Martin's

🎒 The Toolkit

ItemEst. CostNotes
Transport₹1,500 – ₹2,000/dayRent a self-drive SUV for the South
Avg. Meal₹1,200 – ₹1,800/personAt premium spots like Martin's
Experience~₹3,000/personDeltin Royale entry (includes dinner)

Final Thoughts

If it's your first time, the North is a rite of passage—you have to see the forts, the churches, and the bustle. But for us? The South is where we found the Goa we want to return to. The peace of Cavelossim and the flavors of Martin's Corner are unmatched.

We are already compiling the itinerary for our next adventure. Until then, Viva Goa! 🌴